ABOUT THE ENGLISH VERSION OF THIS SITE
The Portuguese version of this Site has a broader set of information. The project to the English version is to have the same info as the Portuguese version has, but it haven't been possible until now. The English version has just general information and a overview of the crag, without bring too much details about the routes.
ABOUT ROCK CLIMB IN BRAZIL
Rock climbing in Brazil is a kind of new sport and under strong
development since 6 years ago.
Here you find more info in english about rock climb in
Brazil: www.HangOn.com.br/englishl.
ROCK CLIMBING IN SÃO PAULO AND NEIGHBORHOOD
If you're coming over to São Paulo City -Brazil- and is kind of sick to rock climb somewhere around and don't have too much time, the Cuscuzeiro may be a good choice. It has easy access and a good number of routes close one to each other, so you may climb lots of routes in a good day. They are mostly sport routes.
Other option, closer to São Paulo city is the Pedreira Cantareira, that's an deactivated quarry. It has a great number of routes close one to each other, but you know, it's a quarry. The "natural environment" is not actually cool, and a lot of people that goes there to swim in a lake should be classified as pigs, and love to leave aluminum cans, PET bottles, and all kind of rubbish. Althought, if you have just one free day to climb, it's a good choice. You may leave São Paulo city, climb and return in just one day.
If you have a couple of free days to climb, the Cuscuzeiro or the
Bragança region may be a good choice. The Bragança region (granite) has also many
routes, but they're spreaded within 4 or 5 crags, so, if you don't have a car it will be
kind of hard to know all of them.
If you have a little bit more time, a good choice may be the Pedra do Baú (Granite) area, that's another cool crag, with thousands of routes. This crag is been developed since a long time ago, and over there you may find sport routes, traditional routes, placing gear routes, and big wall routes. Although you may find important to have a car to climb over there.
There are other rock climb areas in the São Paulo State, but these listed above are the main ones.
CLIMBING IN CUSCUZEIRO ROCK
The base to climb in the Cuscuzeiro Rock is Analândia (see the map beside). You may reach Analândia (a small town by the foot of the Cuscuzeiro) by bus and the rock may be reached walking 2Km from the city. If you have a car you just have to walk up by trail the slopes to reach the rock's foot.Cuscuzeiro is a relatively new crag. Its development had began around 91. Now a days it has about 30 routes to lead, and a couple of them just for top rope. The routes are mainly sportive style and bolted. Just 2 routes require to place gear. The grading vary from III (Brazilian=aprox. 5.6) to IXa (aprox. 5.12c). Friction routes are not common. The most of them are slightly overhanging or roofs. The length of the routes vary from 15m to 60m, and they may have up to 2 pitches.
Follow a list of the routes with the Brazilian rating ( a rating equivalency table on the right):
@.Manga Com Leite - 6º @.Biotônico com Lerin - 6ºsup @.Fly or Die - 7º @.Denorex - 5ºsup @.Mosquitos Go Home - 5º @.Unknow name - 5º @.A Hora do Zebu - 7ºa @.Sunday Bloddy Sunday @.Sem Nome da Direita (Top Rope) @.Transamazônica - 3º @.Let's Go Space Trucking - 5ºsup @.Watch Me - 6ºsup @.Visual - 6ºsup @.Summit access Pilar da Visual - 4º @.Mandacarú - 6ºsup @.Dia da Marmota - 7a @. Caixa de Pandora - 9a @.Irish Jararaca - 6ºsup @.Caverna do Capitão Coruja - 4º @.97 Bons Motivos - 6ºsup @.Paredão - 7º @. Via do Cavalinho - 4º @. A Insaciável - 6º @.Sedosa - 5º @.Daniela (Top Rope) - 5ºsup @.Tarzan - 3º @.Jungle Man (Top Rope) - @.Espinhosa - 5º @.A Descabaçada e o Bundão - 6º @.Bundão (Top Rope) - 5º @.O Gato - 4º @.Rosinha - 4º @.Via da Noiva - 5º @.Pervas - 3ºsup @.Urubús Cadentes - 8a @.Distúrbios no Sono - 8a @.Distúrbios no Forró - 8b @.Sai de Baixo (not finished) @.Carteirinha - 4º |
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In week days it will be hard to find other climbers, but in weekends it's almost sure you'll meet someone. The climbing season is whole year round, but the best season is in our winter (June to September), althought the daylight is shorter, the temperature is more amine and it's the dry season (during this time we may have 3 months with no rain!). In Summer that's all right, but hotter, and almost every day we get an evening shower with thunder storms.
Click here if you would like to check out some pictures. The text is in Portuguese, but if you click the buttons in left pane you will browse the pictures. These pictures are from a climbing meeting in Cuscuzeiro that happened in July of 97. Probably these pictures are from the crowdest day in Cuscuzeiro's history.
If you wish more info, fell free to contact me.
Climb safe and have fun!
Maurício "Tonto" Clauzet
Telephone & Fax 55 41 256.3922
Curitiba - PR - BRAZIL
